Traditional Footwear of Pakistan: A Guide
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The traditional footwear of Pakistan includes several distinct styles, mainly the peshawari chappal, the khussa, the kolhapuri, and the sandal-type shapes worn across Punjab, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Sindh and Balochistan. Each shape developed around local materials, climate and dress, and most of them are still worn today, often alongside modern shoes. This guide explains the main styles, where each is worn, how they differ, and how to fit them into a modern wardrobe.
The peshawari chappal
The peshawari chappal is the most recognised traditional shoe in Pakistan. It is an open shoe with two or three leather straps crossed over the top of the foot, stitched onto a flat sole. The classic version uses a thick rubber tyre sole, which is heavy but lasts for years. Lighter versions use a thinner rubber or leather sole.
The shape comes from Peshawar and the wider Khyber Pakhtunkhwa region, but it is now worn across the whole country. It is common with shalwar kameez, and in recent years it has also been paired with jeans and kurta shirts in cities like Lahore, Karachi and Islamabad.
Key features to know:
- Open toe and open heel, so it is a warm-weather shoe
- Leather straps soften and mould to the foot after a few wears
- The tyre sole version is near indestructible but heavy, around 400 to 600 grams per shoe
- The lighter "Kaptaan" style has a slimmer sole and works better with formal kurta outfits
The trade off is comfort versus durability. A thick sole lasts longer but takes a week or two to break in. A thin sole is comfortable immediately but wears out faster on rough ground.
The khussa
The khussa is a closed, flat shoe with a pointed or rounded toe, made from leather or fabric with heavy embroidery, beads or mirror work. It is the classic shoe for weddings, Eid and formal occasions, especially for women, though plain leather khussa for men is also common in Punjab.
Khussa differs from the peshawari chappal in three ways:
- It is fully closed, so it covers the toe and heel
- It has no separate insole, the upper is stitched directly to the sole
- It traditionally runs small and stiff, and needs breaking in
The most common complaint with khussa is sizing. Because the upper is stitched by hand, two pairs in the same nominal size can fit differently. A common practice is to buy a half size up, wear thick socks for the first week, and stretch the leather with your hands before wearing. Plain leather khussa stretches and softens within a week. Heavily embroidered fabric khussa stretches less, so sizing up matters more there.
For everyday alternatives to khussa with easier sizing, you can browse the Mova women's shoes collection or the wider women's collection, which includes both flat and heeled shapes.
Kolhapuri and other regional sandal shapes
The kolhapuri is a flat open sandal made from woven and braided leather, with a toe post or a closed toe loop. It is lighter than the peshawari chappal and has a softer, more flexible sole. In Pakistan it is worn mainly in Punjab and Sindh during summer, and it suits cotton and lawn outfits.
Other regional shapes worth knowing:
- Sindh: carved wooden khussa-style shoes and embroidered flat sandals, often with mirror work
- Balochistan: hard-soled leather sandals suited to rough terrain
- Punjab: the plain leather khussa and the everyday "desi chappal", a simple two-strap rubber sandal
The desi chappal is the cheapest and most common option, usually rubber with two straps. It is a household and street shoe, not a formal option. If you want something between a desi chappal and a peshawari chappal, the sandals collection at Mova covers that middle ground with 51 options.
Comparison of the main traditional styles
| Feature | Peshawari chappal | Khussa | Kolhapuri | Desi chappal |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Toe | Open | Closed, pointed | Open or toe loop | Open |
| Sole | Thick rubber or leather | Flat leather | Soft woven leather | Rubber |
| Occasion | Semi-formal, casual | Formal, weddings | Casual, summer | Household, street |
| Break-in period | 1 to 2 weeks | 1 to 2 weeks | A few days | None |
| Typical material | Leather straps, tyre sole | Leather or fabric with embroidery | Braided leather | Rubber |
| Works with jeans | Yes, well | Less often | Yes | Rarely |
Sizing traditional footwear
Traditional footwear sizing is less standardised than factory-made shoes. Handmade khussa and chappal sizes vary between makers and even between batches. Before buying, measure your foot from heel to longest toe in centimetres and compare it against the Mova shoe size guide.
General sizing guidance:
| Your foot length | Suggested step for khussa | Suggested step for chappal |
|---|---|---|
| Exact size fits snugly | Go half size up | Stay true to size |
| Wide foot | Go half to one size up | Go half size up |
| Narrow foot | Stay true to size | Consider a size down for strap fit |
Two more points. First, leather stretches, rubber does not. A tight leather khussa will loosen, a tight rubber chappal will not. Second, always check whether the listing is in UK, EU or Pakistani sizing, since all three appear in Pakistani shops.
How to wear traditional shoes with a modern wardrobe
Traditional shapes mix well with modern clothes if you keep a few rules in mind:
- Peshawari chappal with jeans: works best with slim or straight jeans, a plain shirt or kurta. Avoid very baggy trousers, the heavy shoe gets lost.
- Kaptaan chappal with a suit: the slim-sole version in black or dark brown passes at semi-formal events, especially with a kurta shalwar.
- Khussa with western outfits: embroidered khussa pairs with plain solid-colour dresses or trousers. Keep the rest of the outfit simple so the shoe stands out.
- Kolhapuri with denim: the soft woven look suits rolled-up jeans and cotton shirts in summer.
Colour rules are simple. Brown and tan chappal go with earth tones and denim. Black goes with formal wear. Embroidered khussa should either match one colour in your outfit or contrast with an otherwise plain look.
Care and durability
Traditional footwear lasts longer with basic care. Leather uppers should be kept dry, wiped with a soft cloth, and conditioned occasionally with a leather polish or cream. Never dry wet leather near direct heat, it cracks. Tyre soles can be wiped with a damp cloth and need no other care.
Repair is a real advantage of traditional shoes. Local cobblers in most Pakistani bazaars can restitch khussa uppers, replace chappal straps and resole shoes for a fraction of the replacement cost. A well-maintained peshawari chappal with a tyre sole can last five years or more of regular use. Embroidered khussa is harder to repair because the thread work sits on top of the leather, so protect it from rain and rough surfaces.
For accessories such as polish and shoe care items, see the shoes and accessories collection at Mova.
Where to buy
You can find formal shoes at Mova in the formal collection, which includes 43 styles suited to office wear, weddings and semi-formal events. For wider everyday options, the full product range covers casual, formal and traditional-inspired shapes, and customer questions about delivery and returns are answered on the Mova FAQ page.
Frequently asked questions
Is peshawari chappal good for daily wear?
Yes, especially the tyre-sole version. It is durable, breathes well in summer and handles rough streets. The downside is weight, so people who walk long distances daily sometimes prefer a lighter sole or a cushioned sandal. Give a new pair one to two weeks to break in before judging the comfort.
Should I buy khussa one size bigger?
Usually yes, by half a size. Handmade khussa runs small and the stitching does not allow much give at the toe. Plain leather khussa stretches after a week of wear, so a snug fit at purchase is acceptable. Embroidered fabric khussa stretches less, so a half size up is safer there.
Can I wear peshawari chappal with jeans?
Yes. It is now a common combination in Pakistani cities. Slim or straight-cut jeans work better than baggy trousers. A tan or brown chappal with a plain shirt and denim is a standard casual look. The slimmer Kaptaan style also works with kurta and shalwar for semi-formal events.
How do I break in new khussa without blisters?
Wear thick socks for the first few wears and keep the sessions short, an hour or two at home. Before wearing them, flex the sole with your hands and gently stretch the toe area. Applying a little leather conditioner to the inside of the upper also softens it. Avoid wearing new khussa for a full wedding day as your first wear.
What is the difference between khussa and peshawari chappal?
Khussa is a closed flat shoe with a pointed or rounded toe, worn mostly at formal events, and is often embroidered. The peshawari chappal is an open shoe with crossed leather straps on a flat sole, worn casually and semi-formally. Khussa suits shalwar kameez and formal outfits, while the chappal is more versatile for everyday use.
Are traditional leather shoes suitable for rainy weather?
Not really. Leather uppers absorb water, stiffen and can crack when dried near heat. Embroidered khussa is the most vulnerable, since water stains the thread work. If you get caught in rain, let the shoes dry naturally at room temperature and wipe off mud once dry. For monsoon months, rubber-soled sandals are a more practical choice.
Sources and further reading
- Pakistan National Museum, footwear and textile heritage collections
- Lok Virsa (National Institute of Folk and Traditional Heritage), Islamabad
- Victoria and Albert Museum, South Asian dress and footwear archives
- British Library, South Asian material culture references